An extra set of eyes. If they’re aimed right.

Usually, yes, but we check first rather than assume. The camera behind your windscreen is what your lane assist, emergency braking and adaptive cruise rely on to see the road, and a new screen puts it on a new bracket at a slightly different angle. A fraction of a degree at the glass becomes metres of error further down the road. So before any calibration we scan the car and check what the manufacturer requires for it. If it needs calibrating, we do it to the manufacturer’s procedure and give you the before and after readings in writing. If it doesn’t, we tell you, and you don’t pay for work the car doesn’t need.

Yes, we come to you: your home, your workplace or your bodyshop, across London and beyond, with the full set of targets and diagnostics in the van. Most calibrations take one to two hours, depending on the car and whether it needs static targets, a road drive or both. Every car and job is different, so instead of fixed slots we agree a time with you that fits around your day, and tell you how long we’ll need before we arrive. All we ask for is a flat, level spot with a few metres clear in front of the car. No dropping the car off, no waiting room, no lost day.

More than 20, from everyday hatchbacks to hand-built supercars: Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Tesla, Volkswagen, Volvo, Land Rover, Ferrari, Lamborghini and more. What matters is that we follow each maker’s own procedure and targets for your exact car, not a one-size-fits-all routine. If yours isn’t listed, ask us. The answer is almost always yes.

We work alongside insurance-approved bodyshops, so if your car is going through an accident repair, the calibration can be done as part of that job, at the bodyshop, without you arranging anything extra. If you’re not sure how your repair is being handled, ask your bodyshop or message us and we’ll point you the right way.

The systems keep working, just not accurately, and that’s the danger. A camera that’s slightly out can read the lane in the wrong place, brake late or not at all, or keep a following distance that’s shorter than it shows you. Some cars flag it with a warning light; many don’t. The only way to know your car sees the road the way the manufacturer intended is to calibrate it and check the readings, which is exactly what we do.